Houppelande Collection

Portrait of Lysbeth van Duvenvoorde, c.1430. Creator: Anon
Portrait of Lysbeth van Duvenvoorde, c.1430

Nigel Lorringe, late 14th century, (1910). Costume of the reign of Richard II (1377-1399), showing a houppelande (voluminous robe) which reaches over his head, ornamented with a bold pattern

Occleve the poet and King Henry V, c1410, (1910). Thomas Hoccleve or Occleve (1368-1450) here presents his book of poems to Henry, Prince of Wales, (later Henry V)

Examples of the houppelande, 14th century, (1910). Types of houppelande (voluminous robe), from the late reign of Richard II (ruled 1377-1399)

Varieties of the houppelande, c14th century, (1910). The collar is large, and ornamental work in the shape of dagged embroidery has begun to show itself on the shoulders

Richard II at his devotions, c 1380, (1910). The young king, (born 1367, ruled 1377-1399), wears the Houppelande (a voluminous gown worn by men and women)

Henry VI presenting a sword to John Talbot, Earl of Salisbury, c1445, (1910). Henry presents a sword to John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury

John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, presenting a book to Margaret of Anjou, c1445, (1910). John Talbot presents Margaret of Anjou with an illuminated book (The Shrewsbury Book)

Male and female dress, late 14th-early 15th century, (1910). Dress of the time of Henry IV, (1399-1413). The male houppelande has lost its dagged sleeves

Costume / Bourgogne C15
Man: very short houppelande or jacket with dagged epaulettes & hanging sleeves, parti- coloured hose, piked shoes & a bandeau. Woman: Hennin & veil headdress, gown & kirtle. Date: 15th century

English Costume Mid C14
Woman: cote-hardie with long tippets, kirtle buttoned over the hands, ornamental fillet, veil & plaits coiled over the ears. Men: mantle, fur hood, houppelande, girdle & pouch. Date: 1365 - 1376

Italian Dress of C. 1400
Italian costumes differ from those of Northern Europe. N.B chemise drawn through apertures made in the sleeves. N.B horned headdress & fur lined houppelande. Date: circa 1400

Costume of C15Th
Clothing includes: a houppelande with hanging sleeves, pouch hanging from a belt; plumed fur hat worn over an undercap; high buskins & a cape, cote-hardie, piked shoes Date: 15th century

Florentine Costume C15Th
Fur-lined and edged houppelande or gown with funnel sleeves & a hood; fur- trimmed huke worn over a doublet. Both wear hose, piked shoes (cracowes) & caps. Date: circa 1425

German Nobles C14Th
Hood-turbans, fur-lined & trimmed houppelande with bagpipe sleeves, a voluminous garment cape-like in shape but belted & worn over a gipon (the buttoned sleeves visible) Date: 14th century

German Costume Early C15
Men: garments with hanging sleeves worn under armour, chaperon with liripipe. Woman: houppelande (gown) with hanging sleeves, ermine borders, a rosary & a barbette Date: early 15th century

German Ladies 1425
Kirtles with trains worn with a houppelande with funnel sleeves which hang in loose folds or a short gown with fitted bodice & a dagged ? mantle & girdle. Date: 1425

English Costume 1400
Man: buskins, doublet with sleeve apertures, pouch & dagger, brimless hat. Women: cote-hardie, ermine trimmed sideless surcoat, houppelande Headdresses: horned, padded V Date: 1400

Courtiers Dress C15Th
Garments: chaperon, dagged (scalloped) huke, two colour jacket worn over a doublet, riding buskins & spurs, hooded houppelande or gown with dagged, wide funnel sleeves Date: 15th century

Costume / Brass of C15Th
Monumental brass in Digswell Church, Hertfordshire: wide, padded headdress with veil, houppelande with turned down collar, long funnel sleeves, kirtle sleeves visible. Date: early 15th century

Burgundian Dress C. 1450
Hat with burlet, doublet with puffed over-sleeves, jerkins (jackets) with pleats or ermine trimmed & with hanging sleeves, hose & piked shoes (cracowes) or piked buskins. Date: circa 1450

Frenchmen of 1470
Short fur-lined jerkin (jacket) with hanging sleeves, hose, piked shoes (cracowes), long gowns - one with dagged sleeves, small round caps & hats & a chaperon with liripipe Date: 1470

Mens Costume of C15Th
Various social classes from farmer to judge: hose, hood with tabs, pouch suspended from belt, piked pattens & shoes (cracowes), houppelande (gown) with hanging sleeves. Date: 1425

15th Century Lady
Though she carries a devotional book, her sumptuous dress - robes et houppelande historiees - suggest a trace of vanity... Date: 15th century

Officers of Richard II
Officers of the court of Richard II wearing long gown or houppelande, doublet and exaggerated piked shoes

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The houppelande, a stunning costume popular in the 14th and 15th centuries, was a fashion statement that transcended borders. Originating from Burgundy in the mid-15th century, this voluminous garment quickly spread across Europe, captivating both men and women with its regal elegance. In England during the mid-14th century, the houppelande became an integral part of English costume. It featured long flowing sleeves and a loose-fitting silhouette that exuded grace and sophistication. Meanwhile, Italian dress of the early 1400s embraced this trend as well, showcasing their own unique interpretation of the houppelande. Renowned artist Nigel Lorringe captured the essence of late 14th-century fashion through his exquisite illustrations. His detailed depictions showcased individuals adorned in various styles of houppelandes – each one more breathtaking than the last. Not only did nobles embrace this lavish attire; even poets like Occleve were seen donning these luxurious garments alongside King Henry V himself around 1410. The houppelande truly knew no boundaries when it came to its allure. Historical records from 1910 provide us with valuable how diverse and versatile this costume could be. From Richard II at his devotions in circa 1380 to Henry VI presenting a sword to John Talbot, Earl of Salisbury around 1445 – all depicted wearing different variations of the houppelande – it is evident that this style captivated people throughout history. John Talbot himself was not immune to its charm either; he can be seen presenting a book to Margaret of Anjou while draped in an elegant houppelande from approximately 1445. This further emphasizes how influential this garment was among high-ranking individuals during that era. Whether it was worn by kings or poets, artists or nobles alike -the houppelande was a symbol of prestige and refinement.